pashmina shawl wool
How to produce a Shawl
What is the production process of a Shawl?

First of all its important to realise that there are basically two types of shawls:

1. Kanikar (also called: Kani)
This shawl has a design that is woven into the pattern

2. Amlikar (also called: amli)
This shawl is woven without the design in it. The design can be embroidered in a later stage.

The traditional production process can roughly be described in 12 steps:

  1. The shaving of the goat to harvest and collect the wool
  2. To seperate the collected wool from outer hairs and inner hairs
  3. To segretate the hairs based on the length (between 40 to 90 centimeters)
  4. Selection of the best quality hairs
  5. Those hairs will be washed in natural river water
  6. The hairs are pulled apart to make them loose
  7. The hairs are washed again with ricewater (to gain strength)
  8. Than the hairs will go through a spinning process, so that long strengths will form. These long hairs will be used for the weaving
  9. The hairs will be dyed. This used to be with natural pigments. Even in the 15th century the people were already able to create more than 300 different colours.
  10. The yarn is being dryed and prepared for the weaving
  11. First the vertical weaving is done, after which a charcoal design is drawn upon the fabric
  12. The weavers will weave the horizontal yarns, depending on the design